Hiking Son Doong Cave: The Mistakes, the Magic, and What I’d Do Differently
- Jen Brand
- Sep 3
- 8 min read
Updated: Sep 13
Hiking Son Doong Cave, the world's largest cave, is a journey like no other. It promises breathtaking views, intriguing ecosystems, and challenging pathways. Nestled in Vietnam's Phong Nha-Kẻ Bàng National Park, this natural wonder is an adventure that can shape your perspective on nature. However, my own adventure through Son Doong taught me invaluable lessons—some through mistakes. In this post, I’ll share what I learned during my hike, the captivating moments I experienced, and what I would change if given the chance.
The Preparation
Preparation is essential for any hike—especially one as demanding as Son Doong Cave. Fortunately, my preparations were decent, but they could have been better.
In 2023, my friends and I decided to sell out the entire 2024 end of July tour, keeping only two tickets left for other likeminded people to join. That decision brought me to a new region I had never explored before: Vietnam. In earlier journal entries, I mentioned embracing slower travel, and this trip gave me the opportunity to spend three months abroad. I spent seven weeks in Vietnam (accidentally overstaying my visa), followed by a month in Portugal, and wrapped things up in Zakynthos, Greece.
When I travel, I prefer to pack as light as humanly possible—even with all my camera gear. I still check a bag, but it’s far from the largest suitcase you’ll see at the airport. It’s more of a medium size—just one step up from a carry-on. So yes, packing light really matters.
Since it was summer, I assumed ankle socks would be fine. I was wrong. Somewhere along the way, I missed the outfitter’s requirement that your socks must go over your pants. That’s impossible when you’re only packing ankle socks! Another important detail I overlooked: long sleeves are mandatory at all times unless you're at camp. I brought one long-sleeve Vuori top, which I had planned to wear only as my camp outfit—the clean clothes I’d change into each night after hiking.
Thankfully, the outfitter has you covered. They sell proper gear the night of the mandatory pre-hike briefing. The very next morning, you hit the trail.
Understanding the Environment
Son Doong is more than just a cave; it's a thriving ecosystem, home to unique species of flora and fauna. Researchers have discovered that over 200 plant species are native to this cave alone.
For any ecosystem to thrive, water is essential—and visiting during the rainy season meant I experienced humidity like never before. My friends had joined a closed Facebook group dedicated to those who had completed the Son Doong expedition and those preparing for it. The group was full of tips and tricks to stay cool and dry. One popular suggestion was a rechargeable neck fan.
Most of my friends purchased one last minute while still in North America. I, however, had already begun my journey and was in Vietnam—cue the FOMO! Thankfully, one friend bought a fan for me and kindly brought it along.
In the end, I had both the rechargeable neck fan and a traditional Vietnamese paper hand fan. Over and over, I found myself reaching for the paper fan. Here’s why: the neck fan felt bulky, like wearing a statement necklace—chunky and a little heavy. On top of that, I found it hard to hear others while hiking if I had the fan on. To feel any real effect through the thick humidity, you had to crank it to max power, which meant it needed frequent recharging.
While the paper fan did require some effort, it didn’t make me feel hotter—and it doubled as a bug repellent. All of my friends had neck fans, yet only one or two consistently used them over their paper fans.
Pro Tip: The porters will sometimes fan you down as you hike. It’s such a humbling privilege to receive that kind of care. These porters and the safety team rely on Son Doong tourism to support their families—and this opportunity doesn't run year-round. Hiking Son Doong is seasonal, and so is their income.
Many visitors from outside the U.S. aren’t accustomed to tipping, and I understand it may not be a part of your culture. But if you take anything away from this: please reconsider. A tip may seem small to you, but it means the world to them.
Embracing the Challenge
Hiking Son Doong is physically demanding. The trek tests both your stamina and mental strength. Having a solid pair of trekking sneakers with good grip is essential—remember, caves are wet inside.
The outfitters do an excellent job vetting participants beforehand to ensure you're physically capable and properly equipped—though I still managed to miss the memo on socks and long sleeves. They recommend specific hiking shoes (no Gore-Tex, because it takes too long to dry), and they even offer rental options. Luckily, I felt pretty confident in this area since I also do canyoneering.
I brought my Danner quick-dry trekking sneakers (sadly now discontinued—I’m still hoping they release a new version someday). They’re lightweight, dry fast, and have a Vibram sole. I swear by Vibram because it offers better grip and stickiness on wet, uneven terrain.
During the mandatory briefing the night before the trek, the safety team reviews everyone’s shoes. That’s how seriously they take your safety and ensuring you have an unforgettable experience. To my surprise, my beloved Danners almost didn’t pass the inspection—they thought the tread was too worn down. I was shocked! I spoke with the safety manager, and he ultimately trusted that I knew my own capabilities and gear, so he let me slide.
I still don’t think the tread was that bad—and I had zero issues on the hike—but keep this in mind: the depth of your tread matters. There's nothing worse than starting a life-changing adventure in rented shoes, in my opinion.
Navigating Photo Gear to Bring
This was a tough one for me. Let me start by sharing what I brought. I decided to take my Sony 6700 APS-C camera with a wide-angle lens (I forget the exact one—maybe 16mm?) and a zoom lens (18–50mm), plus a travel tripod. Since I was traveling for three months, the only camera bag I had with me was my 40L Peak Design carry-on. That bag would’ve been total overkill for the hike.
For day trips, I had my WANDRD collapsable daypack—probably around 14–16L—but it offered zero support. I wrapped my camera in a quick-dry towel for padding (including the extra lens), then stuffed them into Sea to Summit dry sacks to protect them from moisture inside my pack. Somewhere in there, I also had to squeeze in my chunky portable neck fan, a 24oz insulated water bottle, snacks, phone, bug repellent, bandana, sunscreen (you’re exposed during the hike in and out), and more.
I had tested the fit before leaving the States, and it worked. But during the pre-trek briefing, I quickly learned that if you want to bring a tripod, you must carry it in your daypack. How the heck was I going to do that? I barely had room left for my SPF chapstick!
That same night, the outfitters provide you with a semi dry stuff sack (15L), which the porters will carry—but it cannot exceed a specific weight limit. I was well under the weight limit, so I sneaked my tripod into the porter bag. With the low light conditions in the cave, I knew I’d need a tripod to slow down my shutter. I don’t recommend sneaking gear in like this—by night three, I think they noticed, but they let it slide (another reason why I gave the team an extra tip).
That said, some of the best photos came from our iPhones and those two tickets we left sitting for others to join, well one of those guys, had a Galaxy phone and that took stellar pictures!
If I were to do it again, I’d still bring a camera—but only with one lens (a wide-angle with the lowest f-stop possible) and a proper smaller camera bag with padding and a dedicated tripod slot (even though it’ll get totally trashed). All our packs got beat up—muddy, scratched, torn—you name it.
Don’t Believe Everything You See Online
When I first discovered Son Doong Cave, it was through a combination of an old National Geographic coverage and the work of well-known travel photographer Daniel Kordan. Two images stood out: one of the electric green-blue river inside the cave with canoes lined up perfectly for depth (a scene you typically approach on Day 3), and the other of “The Wedding Cake”—a stunning moss-covered rock formation illuminated by a perfect tunnel of light (usually seen on Day 4).
These moments do happen—but not always. A few weeks before the trek, I reached out to my main contact at the outfitter to ask about the river shot. Her response was short: “No.” She went on to explain that during the time we booked, the river inside the cave is typically dry—and it was. She said it was muddy, with no water, and that we’d have to walk through it. When there is water, the team paddles guests across on a communal raft. I was devastated.
Then I asked her about the Wedding Cake light ray. Another “No.” She explained that the iconic beam of light only occurs during the winter season. I was okay with missing that one, but the river really stung.
Fast forward to being inside the cave, all my gear stuffed into dry sacks. After night one, we started to really connect with the porters and safety team. During a friendly chat, I showed them a screenshot of the river photo and asked if it was still dry—we were approaching it the next day. To my surprise, they said I was in luck. When the trek began, the river had been dry… but it had filled up just days before we got there.
Bottom line: reserve your expectations. What you see online may or may not align with your experience—and that’s okay. A friend of mine joined the tour in February 2025 and got incredible light at the Wedding Cake. But her safety team pushed back on setting up the canoe photo at the river—even though it was full. She had to convince them to help stage it. Not all groups are led by the same crew, and every experience is different. Be kind. Be flexible. And give yourself and the team grace.
Because at the end of the day, nothing will ever replace what you see with your own eyes. We do our best to translate real life into still frames, but presence—true, lived experience—is what we signed up for.
What I’d Do Differently
Reflecting on my Son Doong Cave hike, several things could improve my experience:
Better Preparation and Understanding the Environment: I would have had more long sleeve tops and calf height socks, another set of clothes because you get so dirty and sometimes they will not dry overnight so they do create a bit of a smell. For me, ditch the electric fan and stick to a traditional paper fan. You can find them everywhere in Vietnam.
Embracing the Challenge: Remember sneaker tread matters.
Navigating Photo Gear: One lens and a better daypack.
Don't Believe What You See Online: Have grace and be gentle on your expectations.
Final Thoughts
Hiking Son Doong Cave is an incredible adventure that blends physical challenges with breathtaking beauty. Though I made a few mistakes, each one became a valuable lesson.
For anyone considering this journey, remember to prepare thoroughly, respect the environment, and embrace the camaraderie of your fellow adventurers. With the right mindset, Son Doong offers an unforgettable experience—one that will stay with you long after you’ve left the cave.
Lastly, be sure to book well in advance. Our crew secured our spots a full year ahead through Oxalis Adventure. Use my 5% discount code (QZLQD1). I do not profit from this and it's purely for you to save monies as every little bit helps.
At the time of writing this journal entry in 2025—and when I hiked in July 2024—Oxalis was the only tour operator with permits to access Son Doong. That may eventually change, as more companies could become eligible to apply for permits in the future.
xo,
-J
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